I purchased the Sinclair AR-15 bolt vise / holder block to accommodate my head space checking procedure and to perform general maintenance . This tool is well made / constructed that simply gets the task done. For $25 it's money well spent. You perform a specific task that's done correctly with little or no chance of marring ones rifle bolt. Nice addition to one's firearm tool box. Will outlast me and my shooting days.

Works great for intended purpose. Much better than trying to do it without it. If you ever try to remove your ejector more than once this is worth the price.



I asked a question above about what this tool is made of but I got no answer. It looks like aluminum but it feels like a really hard plastic or fiberglass. Sounds like metal if you tap it.



Everything is way easier when you have the right tool for the job.

When I started doing serious work on AR's, as well as building them, I started looking at all the different tools that can be had for such work.

After reading ALL of the reviews on this part, and with the Brownells 100% satisfaction clause, I went ahead and ordered one along with some other tools.

I have to say that ALL of the Reviews are TRUE! If your building AR's in .223 Caliber, doing chamber work on .223 AR's or just replacing springs, ect, this tool will save you a Hell of a LOT of FRUSTRATION!!

I wish I could have had this tool back when I went to gunsmithing school about 21 years ago!!! I could have saved myself a LOT of frustration, skin, blood, sweat, and a tear or two!!

This tool is well made, and all you need is thumb and forefinger pressure to turn the knurled bolt to adjust your tension for driving out the Extractor and Ejector Pins!

In less than 5 minutes I can take a bolt, drive both pins out, replace springs, or clean the parts, and have it back together again and NOT have ANY of the frustration I used to have to fight in the "Old Days"!!

If I had ANY complaint it would be that I had to pay $25 for the thing. But then again, seeing how little a dollar will buy in today's world, I guess I would not complain too much as it is cheaper than just about any other tool you need to work on AR's.

For those of you who don't know this tool only works on AR-15's with.223 Remington sized bolts!

It's not made to work on .308, 6.5 Creedmore, 450 Bushmaster, ect.

Also, that tiny hole in the bottom of the vice is to help you keep from loosing the Ejector Pin ONLY!! The Extractor pin will drop down outside of the vice but NOT in that small hole. You might want to remember this.

I'm sure somebody will design a vice like this for the other sized bolts, but this small tool is on my "Gotta Have" tool list that I sometimes hand out to a client.

If for no other reason, this tool will save you a LOT of Frustration when working on AR-15 .223 Bolts. It will also help you keep from having to chase pins or springs across the room of your shop too!

With the Brownell's guarantee, you can't go wrong! I'm betting you will add it to your "Gotta Have" tool list too!

"THANK YOU" for reading my review. I hope it helps you.

Yours in Safe Shooting,

Coyote

I recently built my 1st AR-15 and they are easy and fun to build. It reminds me of adult Legos. I recently purchased a bolt carrier from Adam Arms and bought a BCM bolt to use as a spare. I bought the Go/No-Go head space units from Brownells to check head space and for peace of mind. I saw on YouTube how difficult it was to remove the pin from the bolt extractor. On Brownells YouTube it looked very easy with this tool. So I bought it based on Brownells video. People, it was very easy to remove the pin. I am at a loss as to why no one would want to spend about $25 for a tool to remove the pin. This is a MUST HAVE for future builds, checking head space and repairing or upgrading your extractor and springs. Now I laugh at the YouTube videos that show the creative ways everyone tries to remove the pin from the extractor. Many spend more time, effort and money along with the headaches of failures. They should just get this tool and never have to worry again.

Allows safe controlled replacement of Ejector, Etractor, and helps with installing gas rings.

Don't waste your money on the more expensive ones.

This holds the AR15 bolt securely while driving out the roll pin, and has the hole for it to pass through, perfectly positioned.

I can find absolutely nothing I don't like about it, even the price!

I just had to buy this .I my self read all the reviews all where great so why not treat your gun to a Great Cleaning all the way .You will not loose any patr with this tool.Itrust sinclair with this tool.......

Was introduced to this tool in a recent Colt AR15 Armorers' course. After the class, I put one on order. Makes assembling/dissasembling the ejector on the AR bolt a snap. Handy not just for building ARs, but also for stripping the bolt when headspacing a rifle for inspection or when changing the barrel.



One caveat... there's a drive-through hole for the pin, but only on one side. User must set the bolt with the extractor in the right position to drive the pin through. Not a defect in the part, but a "gotcha" for those who don't read directions.

Save yourself frustration, time, energy and lost small parts.

This tool does what it was designed to do and does it correctly and very quickly. Well thought out concept and construction.

Wish I would of had this when I was a younger man.

So simple yet so useful. With this thing I can disassemble and reassemble a bolt in 5 minutes rather than an hour or more of awkwardly trying to depress the pin in the bolt face with my 3rd hand while my other two try to hold the punch and the bolt.

When I first opened the box, I was thinking, "I don't need this, I can do it myself without any extra tools...". Well, unless you have an extra hand or are a very competent armorer, this tool is worth its weight in gold, in my opinion, of course. This tool fully depresses the spring AND HOLDS FIRM the plunger in the bolt face. It allows the user to have the bolt held firmly, like I said, while the user can have a hammer and a 1/16 punch in the other hand, AND it provides a solid, reliable base to drive that 1/16 roll pin out. No worries about the spring shooting the plunger pin (not sure of the exact/correct terminology) halfway across the room and becoming lost where shot-out springs go. There are very small parts inside... Word of caution, do not use an ill-fitting punch. This being my first complete tear-down, I opted for a cheap brass punch in my attempt to drive out the 1/16 roll pin. After a few taps, my brass punch broke off, leaving the pin driven out about 1/8 inch on one side and about 1 inch of brass punch sticking out the hole on the driving side. I got a pair of pliers and pulled the broken punch out of the hole with just a little effort. I had bought a very nice set (you can get them here) of punches a few years ago that start with a "Star" and end with a "rett", and I used that 1/16 punch and a brass hammer, and the roll pin dropped right into the hole in the vise as is should. I then eased the pressure off the knurled and threaded screw, and released the bolt from the vise, tapped (GENTLY so as not to bend anything that came out)the bolt face on the table, and the plunger came out, and then I used a fingernail and pulled the plunger spring out of its housing. I can't think of a better tool for doing this job. Was this absolutely necessary? I can't say for sure, and we may never know, but I wanted to be sure all my parts were cleaned and lubricated to MY satisfaction. I watched a video on the internet where one person said they have seen rifles go thru 20 to 30,000 rounds (sounds high to me, but I can't prove otherwise) without those parts being cleaned. I just know I got a brand-new, never fired bolt, and I wanted to see a new bolt and its parts compared to a used, fired bolt assembly. ***Do so at your own risk*** Re-assembly was a snap. I just put the cleaned and lubricated spring back in, put the plunger in (MAKE SURE YOU PUT IT BACK IN THE RIGHT WAY--THERE IS A RIGHT WAY AND A WRONG WAY) with the cut out so the 1/16 pin can pass thru the cut, and tightened down the vise. I got the 1/16 pin started by hand, and then tapped it into place with a more rigid brass punch and brass hammer. Make sure you get the 1/16 roll pin centered so the pin does not stick out either side. It needs to be recessed just a little bit on both sides so the bolt will function properly. I released the knurled screw, and then was good to go. The only thing even close to negative I could say about this device is that I paid about $25 for it. As I said earlier, worth its weight in gold, but I would not complain if it were $10, but I know somebody had to think up this device, patent it, and machine it, and everybody wants a cut for the work they put into it. A very useful tool whether you are are doing 1 or 100.

I'm ex military and I finally decided to build my first Ar.i read horror stories of improperly Headspaced rifles. Being my first build and using milspec parts,I wanted to be sure. I saw different types and homemade types online. I went with this one and couldn't be more happy. It's easy to line the bolt in, made the pin removal easy and no lost ejector pin! Checked my Headspace and reinstalled the pin without a hitch. My Headspace was fine and this tool helped check it very easy. I don't care if I bought all good quality parts, I still wanted to make sure all was good. This vise and a good set of go/no go gauges helped alleviate my fears. Definitely worth the money in my opinion.

Well designed and easy to use. I used to disassemble and reassemble ar bolts when checking headspace with my Clymer go/no go gauges. Made the job easy when used with my Brownells hammer, roll pin punch, and roll pin holder.